Lullingstone Country Park and Roman Villa

The Lullingstone Country Park is one of a number of such parks dotted around Kent - I daresay there are many all over Britain - and from the visitor's centre there are tracks that suit most tastes and ability. I elected to take a walk around the black trail that led past Lullingstone House (they call it a castle) alongside the Darent river and to the Roman Villa. My intention was to visit the Villa although when I passed Lullingstone House I was impressed by the gatehouseand the buildings in general. The walk takes you past the house and to the Villa or you can continue to Eynsford. I met up with two ladies who had seen me walking around in the village and we passed a pleasant few moments. On these days I am always amazed at how friendly people are and from the centre I walked with a man who was taking his daughter's dog for a walk who told me of the park and its attractions. Interesting.

The Villa is close to the river which the Romans used to transport their goods to London and as a way of reaching Watling street other than the road. Evidently the place was a flourishing farm of 150 to 275 Hectares and had a granary that was as nearly as big as the Villa.

A nice touch was children playing Pooh sticks on the bridge across the river. I liked that.

From there you can see the railway viaduct that is still in use and seems appropriate in the circumstances as it evokes images of Roman aqueducts - with the reference to the phrase ' as quick as a rat up an aqueduct' springing immediately to mind.

Inside the Villa I took some photos but it is better to see the place yourself to get the best out of the visit. I offer a picture of a rather thin man who was found on the site. The Villa had its own burying ground I suppose and it was said that the body which was buried with a woman may be of the household. It was important enough to have a lead coffin.

The country park encompasses woods and a golf course with an eighteen hole and a nine hole course which is also part of the public access. This can be disturbing at first but as long as you respect the golfers and the course greens there is no problem.

As it was a hot day I decided that I needed to cut the long walk short and did so but will at some time take another trip up and walk some of the other pathways. The steamy summer day was typical of the Augusts I remember as a child and I revelled in the myriad butterflies, native wild flowers and the prolific blackberries which furnished me with one of my flipping five a flipping day the government keep rabbiting on about.

It was a day when people were out strolling rather than hiking and as could be seen the harvets is well under way - again a very Roman thing - the wealth of the Villa was in the land. The woods arond the golf course, or the golf course that is inserted into the woods are all part of the park and for walkers and golfers alike there is plenty to see.

Lullingstone Country Park is a multi-use park with the civilised battles on the golf course, bridleways and wild areas for the visitor and is one of the best I have visited. Go there and walk on the wild side.

Eynesford - and the Darent River

I have wanted to visit Eynsford ever sinec I came back from NZ and visit the ancient sites. Lullingstone castle (the ruined one in the town) and this day in August I did. I also walked around with my camera in the villageand found some little gems. The castle is terrific and just the sort of real estate that I can relate to. Starting basically as a moted fort it then became a moted castle that was really a Manor House with heavy walls. It has a cellar and a fire place in the main hall that is built from Roman tiles. I like that, re-cycling in medieval times is a good idea.

The place is not so elegant as the Roman Villa further down the way but I should imagine its function was much different. We know that rebels in Life of Brian had trouble finding something the Romans could be hated for other than conquering them and it seems it was 'peace'. The castle was built in troubled times whereas the Roman Villa was a farm house. I dare say the Manor House was also.

The River Darent passes through Eynsford with a genuine ford that is used - I saw a tractor and a truck use it. The shallow summer flow is also a great place for children to play and keep cool. Interestingly there is a house next to the bridge which is built on piles to allow water to flow underneath.

The gems are the flowers in the front of the pubs, the attractive garden behind the sweet shop and the shattered willow on the river close to the castle. The back garden is a real find and worth a visit. You have to find the willow by walking around the castle and being nosy.

Eynsford is a place to visit in all seasons and I suggest parking at the castle and looking at that, take a good walk around the village and look for Institution House and the Village hall. Walk down to the Roman Villa. The Castle Inn is the place to stop for lunch and a drink but there are plenty of pubs to visit for an ale and a meal. Some with car parks.

Be aware that the place is popular and therefore it will be crowded at the weekends so I suggest a Monday or Tuesday if you do not want to visit Lullingstone gardens and house.

A pub with a sense of the dramatic is the Mason's Shovel - car park and meals but be wary, they clamp. Otherwise go down to Riverside and try the two establishments there. But it was a pleasant encounter with the Darent and its ancient ways. I felt the Roman influence and could imagine the villas spread around the area.

I am sure that given the right information and a lot of research I could think Roman - couldn't you?

Country Park at Teston - a short stroll

Walking by the river Medway can be either a disappointing excercise or a most pleasant experience. The country park at Teston is a place where a pleasant experience can be found. In fact it is compulsory. When I was a lad the Medway was the sort of river your grandparents warned you about but I found it a river that although dangerous as rivers can be, was a tranquil river in good weather and exciting in bad. On this day we saw it in its tranquil, sun drenched mood with boats moving gracefully on the water, people fishing and families picnicking on the grass.

I was interested in the Teston lock and the weir hoping to see it working but instead it appears that there is nobody in attendance and I suppose if you want to use the river you have to limit your trip to either above or below the lock. As it is for the footslogger it is a pleasant sight especially watching the ducks fighting the fast flow on the weir. It was fun watching one of the birds battling against the rapid flow and no amount of instructions advising it to go with the flow and fly up made any difference. It seems that ducks, like cats do not understand English (you tell a cat to stop murdering that rabbit and it ignores you) It was a sort of duck surfing that they all seemed to be on the verge of doing yet wary of actually doing it.

We met up with people enjoying the day in their own way - less frantically than the ducks and as tranquilly as the swans who cruised like small sailing boats and occasionally diving headfirst into the water to feed.

Others, as I said took a different view. The lady with the glass of wine and her husband declared that the time was wine or beer o'clock and raised the yard arm high enough for the sun to squeeze underneath it. I fully approve.

Some went fishing and we saw the inevitable man and wife with children fishing; which means that man fishes; wife tends to the children; wife and children get bored. The two families we saw did not look happy. The young man with the smile was extremely happy and seemed as if he was indulging in the sport with the right attitude - you are not there to feed the family but to have fun murdering fish if you catch them or otherwise just sitting by the river contemplating your naval. What's wrong with that?

In effect the idea of a river walk is to see river things and to enjoy the water. We saw fish; we saw ducks and swans and boats and enjoyed speaking with people.

But as an outing or a day out walking beside the river is a pleasant exercise and one which we must do again. So watch this space for another in depth water visit.

The stone bridge at Teston which is not monitored by traffic lights yet seems to manage the traffic quite well enough thankyou.


It was pleasant to re-visit the river and understand that although the river is dangerous when roused it can also be a most relaxing and pleasant place to wander. For two middle aged intrepid walkers it was, in the words of the weirdo in Life of Brian - a doddle.

Ightam Mote - A Modest Gem

The thing is with Ightam Mote is that it takes you by surprise. The gardens are not the thing you go to see but when you get there the garden is worth a look. This day we had a friend with us on her first visit who wanted to see the house so we concentrated on that more than on the garden.

The house is most interesting and fascinating as it is set in a moat, obviously the earlier builders having decided that a water protection was a good idea and utilised the stream. Later the ponds were developed into fish holding ponds. The main pond was later filled in and looks now like a croquet green.

The National Trust houses rarely change but instead develop as more is discovered about them and more is opened up to the visitor. Naturally this access is also depenedent on the expensive maintenance needed to keep the places viable and protected. Ightam Mote is an old building developed over the centuries from as long ago as 1340 (approximately) starting with the basic baronial hall and developing from there.

Have a look at the roof and look for the spiral brickwork (not shown here) and this row of immaculate, precisly uniform chimneys.

The garden was developed to act as the provider of vegetables and fish with grazing animals and horses for transport and work with stables, converted to cottages and a walled garden. The feature of Ightam Mote is the fish ponds that fed the moat and passed down through into the reed beds and lake - for cleaning the water - and on out of the burn to the Medway. This part of the garden which once included a nuttery is steadily being restored. You take a guided tour which is a most interesting experience. we did not have time to do this but will perhaps do it when we go again.

The garden tour will take you around the grounds with a knowledgeable guide who will tell you much about the place in such an entertaining fashion that we witnessed spontaneaous applause by one group. The gentleman concerned took a polite, and very English bow. On the left is the wall and the entrance to the walled vegetable and flower garden from the lawns in front of the stables.

However, the house is worth the walk through as one of the most interesting places in Kent. from the hall to the chapel - more a crypt - to the Victorian additions and modifications - the chapel cieling decorated in the expectation that Henry VIII was about to visit and Mr Robinson's rooms are worth the visit alone. Although ostentatious in some of its decor, the Chinese wallpaper and the magnificent fireplace in the drawing room are offset by the lived in appearance of the rest of the house giving the place a modest, functional aspect that the visitor can identify with quite easily. The surprise is not so much the sheer age of the place but that it was a home right up 1985. Walk into Mr Robinson's room and the visitor is taken into an almost modern decor.

Old Romney - a visit to a Marsh church

I have passed by the church of Saint Clement at Old Romney yet not ventured in to have a look. As you can imagine the area around Romney will be steeped in history from pre-Roman times and especially remembered for the smuggling said to be rife in the 18th century. However, it is not until we realise that a combination of nature and opportunistic drainage by farmers and the earthworks that were raised to enclose the land, has created the fields and pastures do we see how different the Romney marsh is from the nearby downs and the woody weald of Kent.

The Romney sheep is a hardy breed giving good wool and meat - although I suspect the sheep would rather not give the meat - and these animals have formed the basis of many great flocks. I speak here of the 70 000 000 sheep in New Zealand that have given NZ its reputation for producers of wool and lamb. It was nice to see Romney's in the marshes.

Different also are the Romney Marsh churches and St Clements is one worth a visit. The church dates from the 13th century with additions and chages since - the pews look like late 18th or early 19th century and the Victorians have added some bits but on the whole the feel of the place is friendly which is due to its plain, well lit interior and the simplicity of the decor. This is a live, no-nonsense church that still has a sense of community and sitting inside just contemplating, or praying if you wish, brings a sense of peace.

From the road the church has that typical Romney Marsh look, weathered by the sea but standing out bright in the strong sunlight, yet I have seen this church on a cloudy day and it looks dark and foreboding. This is an illusion created by the marshes themselves that reflect the weather with little softening. In this picture of the church I have tried to capture the mood in contrast to the cheerful inner view.

Perhaps my mood was changed a little when I saw the plain gravestone with its single inscription. I was surprised to discover that Derek Jarman was buried here and guessed, correctly, that there was much discussion about allowing him to be buried in St Clement's churchyard. Jarman, as far as I can recollect was not a religious man although extremely talented with a strange but fascinating philosophy. At least we know where he is.

As I said, the Romney Marshes are different, rich grasslands that seem washed out in the bright sunlight yet can sustain flocks of sheep behind what is a rough beach and comparatively new seashore.

The houses with their distinctive red brick and roof tiles and the farm fences are Romney Marsh style contrasted with the soft green of ancient willows and rushes along the dykes and ditches give the area its distinctive look.

A farmhouse tucked away behind trees - bathed in the sun

I will be taking another look at the marshes and maybe find some smugglers, or at least discover the inspiration for the Dr Syn tales and explore 'The Scarecrow'. Who knows, truth may be more exciting than the fiction?

A Short Peek at Bethersden

On the way home I called in at Bethersden and had a pint in The George. I expect that on a Saturday you will find the place a boon on a hot day. The beer is good and the restaurant cool and inviting with an affordable menu. I didn't eat there becuase lunch service was over and I had eaten a light lunch at Bodiam.

The George is a local pub as opposed to The Bull on the main road. I thnk I would settle initially for the George.

Anyway, I took a short walk around the village and visited the church where a volunteer was working on the garden that bordered the path to the church door and for a few moments we chatted. It appears that there are a number of volunteers each with a 'plot' to look after. The system is instead of employing a contractor to do the work. This way they get a good job done and have the satisfaction of knowing that it will be done properly.


As this was a casual walk I took the path around the church and met another resident sitting on a bench with her two dogs in attendence. I asked permission to take her picture and we chatted about the place, put the world to rights and spent a pleasant twenty minutes nattering. She told me about the local stone which is known as Bethersden Marble - the path in front of the bench is made of it - and we parted feeling much better about life, the universe and everything.

Afterwards I took some pictures of the village and saw this little gem of a porch with the vivid red rose and of course I had to include it.

Bethersden is typical of our small villages; it suffers from recession as most places do and has to concede to commercial pressures and allow businesses and light industry to take root. It is a matter of survival but a pity because the natural beauty of the place is diminished. But we need a mixture of people living in the villages or they become the domain of the rich and that must be boring for everybody.

Bodiam Castle - Sussex

A sunny afternoon, a pass to get into the National Trust properties and a desire to see the castle again led me to this crowded venue. Not only was I reminded of Monty Python's Holy Grail but there was also the sketch about Llamas coming to mind. However, the first thing was to take in the fact that the place was crowded with families enjoying the day and events going on in the grounds.

Sir Edward Dalyngrigge began the castle in 1385 and as you can see from the photos it was never finished. From the outside it looks pretty good sitting in a lake that is filled with carp of great size that were once destined for the larder of the inmates. The castle is attractive and it is obvious that its purpose was mainly as a residence that could be defended. You can tell from the defences reconstructed in the models on display that the castle was a household controlling the village and farms on the estate. Also when the castle was built it was certain the river was a busy waterway. Inside either the building work stopped or the stone was nicked for local use. Again you have to look at the plan and I suggest do what I did - pay the place a visit.

Summer attracts the visitors so the volunteers and actors, performers and traders, a small fairground, archery and Llamas. It was not easy taking clear shots of the castle but the view from the top was fantastic.

The volunteers were friendly and obliging dressed in costume in the castle to set the atmosphere with Knights and monks enacting stories in the 24 degree heat. The women's clothing looked cool but I would not want to dress as a Knight even if the armor was plastic and the cloth light and thin.

The young woman on the gate was at least in the cool.

And here are the Llamas! For a fee you can walk the Llamas although I simply took photo and thought of how well they looked. The Llamas were tied up but were quite used to people and seeemd to take the fuss made about them as their just dues. They seemed happy.

The Llamas refused to pose.

I did not find the Holy Grail but I did meet some Normans (French visitors) who unless they were hiding the animals under their clothes - they were quite fat people - seemed harmless and did not hurl insults at me. However, as I was on my own I mounted my Ford Fiesta Coconuts and galloped off elsewhere. (Go away you silly Englishman!)