Old Romney - a visit to a Marsh church

I have passed by the church of Saint Clement at Old Romney yet not ventured in to have a look. As you can imagine the area around Romney will be steeped in history from pre-Roman times and especially remembered for the smuggling said to be rife in the 18th century. However, it is not until we realise that a combination of nature and opportunistic drainage by farmers and the earthworks that were raised to enclose the land, has created the fields and pastures do we see how different the Romney marsh is from the nearby downs and the woody weald of Kent.

The Romney sheep is a hardy breed giving good wool and meat - although I suspect the sheep would rather not give the meat - and these animals have formed the basis of many great flocks. I speak here of the 70 000 000 sheep in New Zealand that have given NZ its reputation for producers of wool and lamb. It was nice to see Romney's in the marshes.

Different also are the Romney Marsh churches and St Clements is one worth a visit. The church dates from the 13th century with additions and chages since - the pews look like late 18th or early 19th century and the Victorians have added some bits but on the whole the feel of the place is friendly which is due to its plain, well lit interior and the simplicity of the decor. This is a live, no-nonsense church that still has a sense of community and sitting inside just contemplating, or praying if you wish, brings a sense of peace.

From the road the church has that typical Romney Marsh look, weathered by the sea but standing out bright in the strong sunlight, yet I have seen this church on a cloudy day and it looks dark and foreboding. This is an illusion created by the marshes themselves that reflect the weather with little softening. In this picture of the church I have tried to capture the mood in contrast to the cheerful inner view.

Perhaps my mood was changed a little when I saw the plain gravestone with its single inscription. I was surprised to discover that Derek Jarman was buried here and guessed, correctly, that there was much discussion about allowing him to be buried in St Clement's churchyard. Jarman, as far as I can recollect was not a religious man although extremely talented with a strange but fascinating philosophy. At least we know where he is.

As I said, the Romney Marshes are different, rich grasslands that seem washed out in the bright sunlight yet can sustain flocks of sheep behind what is a rough beach and comparatively new seashore.

The houses with their distinctive red brick and roof tiles and the farm fences are Romney Marsh style contrasted with the soft green of ancient willows and rushes along the dykes and ditches give the area its distinctive look.

A farmhouse tucked away behind trees - bathed in the sun

I will be taking another look at the marshes and maybe find some smugglers, or at least discover the inspiration for the Dr Syn tales and explore 'The Scarecrow'. Who knows, truth may be more exciting than the fiction?