A quick visit to Tonge

It is well known that Sheppey, Sittingbourne and Faversham are historical towns although the emphasis is often placed on Faversham as the home of the Shepheard Neame brewery and that it is an ancient town with much of its old buildings preserved. The centre is always popular with visitors and naturally its connection with the sea is all part of that attraction. However, Sheppey shares that history as the home of a naval dockyard and the famous or infamous Blue Town area and its connection across the Swale with Faversham via the Harty ferry. Sittingbourne has an equal share of that history as a place where Romans stopped and pilgrims to Canterbury rested and can also boast a connection with the sea via the tidal Milton creek.

So, on my wanderings I took a quick visit to a small place outside Sittingbourne on the East that has a connection with the sea and part of the Saxon Way. That is the small settlement of Tonge usually known as Tonge Mill.

Tonge to the east of Sittingbourne has the doubtful privilege of being not far from Sittingbourne yet far enough away to be isolated. Close to the Swale and the inlets where once a ferry crossed the Swale, Tonge has a history that dates back to the Saxons. Fed by a stream of spring water the pond at Tonge is home to ducks and a welcome placid sight for the visitor. Tonge Mill has two parts - neither are used as a mill anymore - one a 19th C industrial building that is functional and from a distance quite attractive but close up shows its drab, practical Industrial Revolution style. It was built for purpose. The earlier building is a little more pleasing with its weather board walls and walled garden that hides the leets that drain the pond.

The 19C Mill and above the old mill building.

Close by there is the Tonge Memorial Walk and a pleasant new planting of trees where people can picnic or wander and sit on the benches. That they are reminded of the war dead does not detract from the scene but rather encourages a reverence that is linked with the past.

It is said that Hengiist built a castle on the hill behind the mill or maybe the hill was built for the castle to stand on? Whatever the story is remains were found of a Saxon dwelling although it was more a fortified house than a regular motte and bailey construction. Also there is no doubt that Romans (the buggers get about everywhere) had a place there as well to take advantage of the fresh water and the access to the Swale which was probably a lot different when they were in residence.

The planting on the Memorial grounds.

Further along the road to the north there is Tonge church which is worth a visit although bereft of gravestones it is a typical example of church buildings in this part of Kent - very much reminiscent of Dickens portrayal of Pip's churchyard and the somewhat grim nature of the flint and rag that was used as building material. The church is surrounded by yew trees and a crumbling brick wall. The building smacks of peaceful neglect as if it is quietly waiting for a congregation to appear and do it service. With more gravestones and given a foggy, dusky evening one might say 'here there be Vampyres.'

On the whole the trip, although brief, was a pleasant interlude in the weekend and as you can imagine also a pleasant surprise to see places of interest that otherwise may have been passed by. The only pity is that Sittingbourne is encroaching on the land around and may possibly extend as far as Tonge as it has already done with places such as Tunstall, Bapchild and Borden. Not a pleasant thought as this is typical Kent marshland countryside - a mixture of agriculture and the memory of a seagoing past. I hope that it remains isolated and as sleepy as it is today.

The Place Where I live

The Isle of Sheppey is filled with history. Its name means Island of Sheep as yuo might guess and it was remembered that when the Dutch invaded they took sheep and left the residents alone.

Opposite is the creek at Queenborough

Sheerness was the home of a Naval Dockyard until 1960 and gave good service until at last it was closed. The apprentices and the workmen from Sheerness went to Chatham or elsewhere and its place was taken by the commercial docks and the Steel Works.

Since 2005 when the Sea Sheppey group re-enacted the death of Lord Nelson there has been a resurgence in the the interest in Sheppey's past. 2009 will be a celebration and recognition of Sheppey's involvement with early flying pioneers with events to be held in and around Queenborough.


Opposite is the settlement at Sheelness

The Island is host to the Elmley RSPB reserve where there are annually a whole list of bird visitors. Remote from the rest of the island and recognised as one of the South East's unique seabird habitats Elmley is a place for the enthusiastic twitcher. In company with a friend and other enthusisasts I spent a Friday evening there creating Haiku poems which I later performed, with additional poems, at an evening event entitled Moon View - this in September when the moon was full. It was a magical evening.

Above is a view to Shellness Settlement

Sheppey's long connection with the sea which goes back to pre-Roman times is well known and so too is the connection with the trading carried out by the Thames Barges and the annual race around the island which can best be watched from the Harty Ferry Inn. This inn was once a staging post and rest for travellers from the mainland. Across the Swale, the sea divide between the mainland and Sheppey, there is the Harty Ferry landing which was once the roadway from Faversham. Today there is a nature reserve where flocks of birds fly and feed and flocks of twitchers click their shutters. It is said that seals can be seen on the sand banks close to the Sheppey side.


Across the bridge there is Sittingbourne the third leg of a the triangle between Faversham and Sheppey. Not a pretty place in general Sittingbourne is surrounded by pretty villages and in the Spring redeems itself with adisplay of blossom and daffodils that would do any town proud.

Above is Bobbing Church - a village just outside Sittingbourne.



The centre of Sittingbourne is hard to pin down but it has a civic centre although the town is scheduled for regeneration in the near future. The centre houses a swiming pool and fitness centre, entertainment halls and the Avenue Theatre - an asset for local entertainment - plus a semi-pedestrianised shopping street that was once the main A2 highway.


Central Avenue - Sittingbourne





Sheerness, the war memorial with planting of wild flowers either side that shows a little sense on the part of the Swale Borough Council which has not always been so sympathetic toward the town.

The memorial covers both world wars as to be expected and is the focus of rememberance services each year.

Out in the reaches the wreck of the Richard Montgomery can be seen marked by yellow bouys which are that can be seen at high tide and a low tide the masts of the liberty ship can be seen clearly. The local residents are waiting for the munitions nestling and rotting in her holds to explode. Exciting eh?

Sissinghurst and Biddenden

Spring is sprung the grass is riz and the rest is always a parody but this weekend, the last of March I thought that I would capture the freshness of new daffodils and emerging magnolias at Sissinghurst and afterwards make a quick visit to Biddenden. The day was cold with sunshine that warmed us up a little and the walk around the gardens was pleasant. Daffodils and forsythia were in abundance and it was a pleasure to see the gardens so new and raw.




Sissinghurst always has something new to offer although the gardens remain the same in layout and location. The bare early spring reveals the bones, the skeleton on which the gardens will grow during the summer and autumn and this is a pleasure that I have missed in previous years.


Which whenever I have approached the garden tucked away beside the White Rose garden I have always just missed the display of helibores and bulbs. Well this year I did not.

The magnolias were about to bloom and as you can see the shrubs are so far devoid of leaves yet they are beginning to bud. Peonie plants are appearing and that means timing a trip to Penshurst for their peonie display. In the emantime the garden at Sissinghurst is new and tender and beautiful.

The nuttery for example with bare branches and emerging leaves, cropped as if coppiced reveals the delicate flowers below exposing them to the view and giving that touch of fresheness I remarked on earlier. Like spring lambs gambolling in the paddocks the bulbs and other small plants dance in the light airs of the new season and reduce me to a poetical view.

Seeing the gardens so open was a terat as when the summer arrives I will apreciate the verdant and colorful coverage all the more. Pity about the poplars being cut but I understand that there will be replacements. But this day it was the turn of the daffodils and I thought of Willy Wordsworth and saw what he saw in the 'host of waving daffodils' - an army or a pleasing angelic crowd worshipping God or maybe greeting the sun.

On the way back I stopped for tea at Biddenden intending to snack at the Red Lion only to learn that Sunday is no day for food. Instead I went across the road to the tea shop and ate there. I have fond memories of stopping in the village for ice cream when we were children and have the image in my mind of fresh ice cream made in the shop. I may be wrong but it was a long time ago, the 1950's and a quieter more liesurely time. Instead I saw a tea room that was also a gift shop from wher I purchased a book, ate some dainty toasted sandwiches and an excellent cup of coffee. Downside: I had the impression the staff were not that happy. Still, recession hits everybody and running a tea shop is a dodgy enterprise anyway, the quality was high and the snack hit the spot which for anybody on a Sunday visit is nice to know.

Biddenden All Saints church is a dominating feature in the village but as probably one of the most photographed places in Kent the village street is worth a look.

However, the place is on what I would call 'good stropping roads' for motorcyclists and the tourist trade will no doubt block the place up in the summer. There is parking for the visitor but I should rely on looking for alternatives if yuo wish to stay for a while. The story was that sometime ago there were two sisters conjoined and believed to have lived as such for many years. The story is no doubt told in the books on sale at the tea rooms and gift shop, and I dare say the tale can be gleaned from any resident if asked. Looking back to the years when I was a child I remember being told the story every time was stopped there but mostly the attraction was the ice cream.

I think that later we might pay a visit and explore but before that we might have to think about finding another way of stopping at the village as it might be too crowded in the summer.

A brief visit to Smarden

Kent offers many pretty places to visit and in spring one of it attractions is the blossom of flowering cherry, blackthorn and the freshness of trees and hedgerows not yet in leaf but beginning to bud. March 21 is a good day to start looking at places like Smarden and this day we did just that although only briefly. We had no real plans to go far on this day having decided to take my sister's frined with us to our parents graveside to put some flowers for Mothering Sunday and then perhaps to go somewhere local after that. As it was things worked out slightly differently and so we were given a small early spring treat (sounds very olde worlde and stuffy) and have a quick look at one our prettiest villages.

This day we had a sad duty to perform in addition to the planned trip to our parents graveside to put some flowers in recognition of Mothering sunday. My sister's daughter, who is as daft about animals and pets as my sister and I can be lost her pet rabbit to the grim reaper so, to remember the loved creature she had it cremated and we went to collect the ashes from a farm near Benneden. With us was my sister's friend who was to be given the treat of a day out and so we set off taking the long way around and eventually arrived at the place and duly collected the remains. On the way back we stopped for a while at Smarden which happens to be one of the most gobsmackingly beautiful villages in Kent.

The approach to the churchyard from the main street - named The Street (eek)

Set around a church and on the river Beult it is subject on occasion to flooding but this day all was tranquil and dry except of course for the pubs. Too early for a lunch we took a stroll around the village, albeit a brief one as we had another appointment later that day put the flowers on the grave and also to travel to Rainham to deliver remains to said niece. For me it was a treat to meet her horses face to face rather than just to espy them on occasion from a train.

Daphne and her friend June sitting in the churchyard - a most attractive sight.

But back to Smarden.

We parked in the Flying Horse car park and later went back for a liquid lunch. Note that the place is small but has a garden bar out front and an affordable menu which in contrast to The Chequers around the corner is a bonus. I cannot say much about the lunchtime food because we had to leave before we could eat but I liked the look of the menu. The landlord was friendly and helpful and I was glad to see it was a family inn with children's menus as well.

Anyway, back to the village.

The place has a post office and general store combined plus that rare treat - a local butcher's shop. In summer the place get's full with visitors and as this was the first day of spring(official) I did not look out of place with my camera and clicky habits. The last time we visited Smarden we walked extensively around the village using the Chequers as our base and headed on out from the buildings many of which are 16C or older and out into the fields to follow the river.

A view from the churchyard

This day we walked out of the village a little way and halted when a gentleman riding a buggy whispered up behind and wished us a good day. He was 91 and looked hale and hearty so we stopped and chatted about this and that as you do. It turned out that he lived in a place on his son's farm about 2km from the village by road and this was his weekly excursion to and from the village. It also turned out that he was an old soldier from WWII and when he told us that he had been in Burma fighting behind Japanese lines I realised he was probably one of Wingate's 'Chindits' but too late, he was gone before I could ask. We walked back to the village for said liquid lunch, coffee for the girls and an ale for me, taking a stroll through the churchyard which in the spring sunlight was beautiful.

We decided that we needed to re-visit the place later in the year.

Pluckley - we ain't afraid of no ghosts

The Village of Pluckley is probably one of the places many people will head for not only for its reputation as a ghost town but for its association with the television series 'The Darling Buds of May'. This was March and a cool cloudy day so the best of the village was hidden in that typical English grey which was a pity becuse the trip promised much. However, the afternoon was a good one with the occasional sunny spots and as yuo can see from the picture of the church we are still in winter although in all the gardens and around the hedgerows the daffodils, violets and primroses seemed to explain that spring is on the way. Trees are budding and fruit trees have the blossom beginning to burst out. Pluckley shows its readiness fro spring and I would say that once here we will see a great and refreshing change.

Pluckley is supposedly the most haunted place in Kent revealed the only ghosts this day, 14th March, was us as we watched drivers trash through the village ignoring the 30mph and 40 mph speed limits with impunity. The illegitimate son of an illegitimate female dog driving a porsche seemed to think that 60 to 70 was okay even with walkers and cyclists and later a horse and trap as fellow travellers. Idiot! Opposite is a house that is on the Charing road. Note the windows which seem to be part of the Pluckley style but more of that later.

However, we parked outside the Black Horse inn and after our usual break for coffee and or a glass of beer we took a stroll around the village and enjoyed the sights of what must be one of the most attractive villages in this area of Kent. (Pity about the formula one track) Take a look at the unusual brick frame windows we were informed were called Dering windows after the local ancient resident and family that seem to dominate the area. We found a local butcher and bought some pies - delicious; that is the one I had for my tea that night.

A gate house not far from the church which illustrates the style of window that although set in the local stone is a brick or cast shape.

We lunched at the Black Horse but I would not recommend it as a real treat compared to what we have experienced so far in our travels. The beer was not that great and the food was indifferent to fair and the service was good but there was not the atmosphere of the previous places. Probably being a popular place for the average tourist and early in the season I suggest that perhaps staff have not yet realised that you have to be brighter. It had an 'are you local' feel to it. To balance the criticism off the staff member who chatted with us after we had paid was willing to tell us a little about the village.

A view across the weald from Pluckley.

However, the stroll was pleasant and we followed a reccommended route from in front of the pub turning right on down Forge Lane to Lambden road. We missed the public footpath but did niot regret it because there were some interesting buildings on the way. we noticed more of the Dering style windows and noted that where extensions or modernisation had taken place the new windows followed the Dering pattern.

The walking was easy and pleasant and with views of farmhouses, sheep and the low hills we realised what a pleasant place it was to visit and could understand the attraction. Maybe the ghost liked the place so much they too wanted to stay?

One of the attractions was the amount of large trees that were growing in the area but what detracted from that pleasure was that in places, especially past the orchards the hedgerows had been scragged to the point of annihilation. That is not good for wildlife but not all paddocks were like that.

Our walking guide said that there was a house with a rose garden in front of it buit failed to say that it was also part of the most well managed looking farmyard we have seen since Luddenham Manor Farm near Oare. This time of the year the rose are mere trimmed stumps with perhaps the suggestion of growth but what we could see from the layout that in the summer the garden will be a riot of color.

But color was added with the early spring flowers and the early tree blossom and of course the evergreens that contrast with the dun colored trees not yet showing green although if you looked closely there is a green bloom beginning.

We also noted that the birds are getting active and saw, with great pleasure, a pair of fat sparrows on a roof near Pluckley Station.

But back to the wild flowers. It was a treat to see the violets in the sunshine and primroses scattered on the banks of a roadside ditch which chattered with the sound of clear running water.

As it was Pluckley without the ghosts was a neat walk and we should re-visit the area when the place is humming with spring and summer life.

To finish the walk from Lambden we turned up the road back to Pluckley and turned right onto the narrow lane where we saw the primroses and followed a marked footpath from there about a kilometre further along opposite a row of cottages, again with the odd windows and wandered up between the orchards to the farm where house with the rose garden stands. From there it is but a short back past the church and across the sports field sporting its new, community built cricket pavillion and back to the Black Horse. A shortish walk but better for the time of the year.

Not a long walk but full of interest and from our map; the one we use to guide us around places, we saw more areas of interest. There was a walk to or from the Dering Arms or the Blacksmiths Arms to explore and walk on the woodland paths within cooee of Smarden which in the summer would be a great walk. Especially so if we don't want to get stranded on the dark with all them ghosties!

Elham - Kent; a pub walk

We looked at Elham once when the sat-nav went wrong on the way back from a visit to Lympne wildlife park and instead of turning right we turned left and passed through Elham. Unfortunately we could not stay and explore as time was pressing so I made a note on the map to visit the place again. The sat-nav could lead us there. So this weekend - 7th March saw us heading for that part of Kent we rarely visit. The guide, a pub walks book, suggested we park in the village square opposite the Kings Arms tavern so like good travellers we followed the guide and did exactly that although there isn't much choice.

The Kings Arms - a good place to start from.

However we were rewarded again with a warm welcome and a landlord willing to converse with us and do his best to make us feel wanted. Maybe I am being a bit cynical here but I suppose being friendly to all your customers is a way of getting business and all part of the way landlords work. I have to say that the landlord was genuinely friendly and so were the locals which is a great thing when you are visiting. One tends to store away the information and feel like returning or suggesting the place to others.

A Typical street in Elham - a mixture of the old and the new.

We took a stroll around the village and the immediate environs for an hour or so after sampling the local brew and some coffee and decided that Elham was a pretty village which even in early March showed some promise of the coming spring. The unusual feature is the church which dominates the skyline with its tall spire and imposing structure and although we didn't venture into it it became a point of interest from almost anywhere in the village.

We saw other walkers who tended to tromp the hill paths rather than the village but as we agreed the reason was simple: the typical English countryside of Kent, the roling downs and the small woodlands, the large elms and oaks and the glimpse of chalk pits or prominences was the attraction. We like to mix the two. Apart from that we split the walks in to two parts - once around the village - eat lunch - stagger around on the pathways and try and walk the calories off. The sat-nav comes in handy here. We use a fairly good map and of course the pub walk guide and our natural ability to wander from the chosen route.

Sunshine and threatening rain

This day we were impressed by the view from the hills of Elham village and the valley which despite the threatening clouds that promised rain was magnificent. Our route was from the square down Cocks Lane to the stream and then up the hill following the yellow markers. We then turned back and headed across the paddocks to Ducks Lane where there is a chalk pit which is part of a roadside wildlife area. We sat on a seat donated by the local society and enjoyed the view across the village and the valley - thanks folks - a pleasant prospect! We followed a path below the chalk pit up the hill and again had some wonderful views of the village to Standard Hill Farm where we traced a route that led us back down the hill to the village again.

All in all we walked some seven or eight miles in and around the village and didn't even scratch the surface as once more there was many paths and places we could have visited. But this would have stretched us a little too far and required us to get there at a much earlier hour and most possibly challenged the sat-nav.

Explanation of the sat-nav.

I have bird poo on the hood of my model T where I park it under a tree at school where I work. I suggested that the poo came from a homing Pigeon I take with me in the model T who will guide me home - the bird sits on the hood when I am walking and when I need it will communicate telepathically with me and guide me back to the car. I may as well use that as an explanation because usually we get lost because it is impossible to communicate with Pigeons telepathically unless you can teach them English.

Okay, so by now you are a little puzzled, bear with me, the unexpected is always welcome and getting it wrong is a delight - we lost the plot in Elham but it didn't matter because we could see the place easily and that is the beauty of visiting the village.

My sister has a sat-nav on here car so I was able to leave the homing pigeon behind - the bird wasn't very efficient anyway; something to do with too many satellite cell phone masts and the fact that we really look at a map. The method works well because we are often surprised by the unexpected discovery of a rare and beautiful scene.

Newnham and Sharsted House

Newnham, tucked away in a fold between Doddington and Lynsted is one of those places you often drive through and think ' I should have a look at this place sometime' but you keep putting it off. This time we wandered out there and parked in The George Inn car park. Again as always I suggest you ask permission first and support the local pubs by planning lunch and sampling the ales. The George was most welcoming and I can recommend the food - sounds like I always do but that is because so far in this year of walking and blogging we have had nothing to complain about. The George comes up to what we are steadily discovering is a high standard of affordable lunch meals and excellent service in Kent pubs. The George is no exception; added to which the landlord was happy to show off the walks in his area; good man!

The George and the Church on this terrific February day

The walking: there is a recognised walk mapped out to lead you back to The George but as usual we ignored and relied on our personal sat-nav (a map of the area and propensity to follow our noses) and headed out to Sharsted Lane and up to the woods and Sharsted manor. The manor is a magnificent place set in woods with a wall surrounding with tennis courts which we were told was the residence of Virginia Wade. Impressed. We walked through Sharsted woods to Doddington church and the old Vicarage and took the footpath that leads across the Doddington House estate preferring to avoid the village itself in favor of walking back to The George for lunch. I suggest here that you book a table when you turn up at the pub - the service is much more friendly when the landlord is assured of a customer or two.

The Gatesof Sharsted Manor and the building

After lunch we headed up the road opposite for the little settlement of Seed enjoying the afterno0n sunshine; a treat for a February day and realising we were over-dressed. I nearly took one of my pullovers off wishing I had left my coat in the car. This time of the year is strange regarding the weather - sometimes it is cold and even at noon we shiver or there is a touch of spring and like this day, the 21st was almost a warm spring day. If the trees were not bare and the ground not so wet we could have been walking in spring. However, the walking. At Seed by the cross roads there is a path that will take you back to Newnham via the back road behind Seed. We took this and deviated a little on another path that led down to the Eastling road and down to the The George again.

The magnificent Doddington House from the estate grounds.

As you come out onto this road from the Seed footpath there is another opposite that will take you to the Ottenden road much further along where you can walk to Eastling. Being casual walkers the time was getting to the point where we would be walking at sunset and did not like the idea of tromping along in the dusk so the shorter route was better. The path has a couple of branches which will take you to a few interesting places which we will explore at a later time.

In the meantime our short offering is hopefully good enough to guide you around the place and catch some of the sweeping countryside views as well as experience excellent brews and good service.