Luddesdown - and the Dog

The North Downs offers some surprising places to visit and so back on our trips again we paid a visit to Luddesdown close to Shorne, Cobham and Camer country parks.  This was my second visit so as before we stopped at the Golden Lion before midday and went for a short walk up Cutter's Road from the pub and crossed to Luddesdown Court passing behind the farm which was getting ready for its open afternoon.  We walked, we three with grand sight of the downs all around us, ripening barley and wheat and the sound of cattle protesting being cut off from their calves. 

The path leads past the Court to the church and links up with the Weald Way path from Camer Country Park.  We had a look at the church and then discussed the possibility of walking paths down past the cricket ground and decided to take the road back to the Pub for a drink and lunch.  As expexcted the fare was simple but priced right and good - even the beer was good.  Zoid the dog behaved himself and we felt at home.  As a base for hiking in the area I would say the Golden Lion is a good choice being on the hub of many footpaths and part of circular walks in the area.  For the intrepid walker there is Holly Hill above Birling to visit and on the way pass by Dode Church or alternatively park at Holly Hill and walk down to the pub and back.  The Weald Way passes close by. 

However after lunch we walked up the lane opposite the Lion and took the first path on the left crossing a paddock with a couple of grazing horses and so over the hill back to Luddesdown where we stood overlooking the cricket ground.  We turned right from there following the ridge and followed the path into the privately owned woodlands.  A fresh breeze cooled us down and my Sister who suffers from the heat was revived from her degenerating lethargic state.  Even so it was still hot as the woods were open being coppiced but it was worth it when we again looked down on Luddesdown. 

We resorted to the road following it past the cricket ground and back to the pub.  On the way we had to stand aside for two tractors towing trailers giving visitors rides around the farm.  Children waved.  we waved and so did some of the more enlightened adults. 

Luddesdown farm was set up as an organic farm in 1986 serving the local area with wholesome food.  I expect they also sell goods on the general market too but are not subject to the demands of the greedy supermarkets. (I hope)

Below I have added a couple of poems that reflect my thoughts about the Downs.  They relate to my Sister and I and our casual walking.


The North Downs by James Apps



We walk, you and I, gazing

Where wind sings in the trees

And passing memories brushing

Our thoughts, bend gracefully

With the breeze.

You look for small animals;

I see weary plodding pilgrims

And hear their irreverent tales;

You like my explanation, we both

Enjoy the peace.

Below traffic hums a pilgrimage

Remote from these gentle hills,

You see a rabbit sit up and dodge

Away at our coming; a lark twitters

Above the fields.



These days of green and yellow

Draw our footfalls to echo softly

Where others more dedicated flow;

Yet our exploring feet are not lonely

Treading the past.

There, ahead the path drops, steep

Our feet carry us down to the roadway,

Past curious and run away sheep,

Puzzling at our appearance, worried

Until we pass by.

Pilgrims Way



This roadway where Chaucer trod,

Noble Knights and travellers plod,

Inn keepers where their vittals kept

Once where weary pilgrims slept,

We too stop to take our casual care,

Sample ploughman’s common fare,

Drink coffee brew and local ales

And rest awhiles to tell our tales.

Walking on Toy's Hill - National Trust

With a need to give the dog Zoid some exercise and to enjoy a shady summer walk we chose to explore Toy's Hill near Sevenoaks in Kent.  A wise decision as it turned out.  The dog loved it and was so eager to get in the car for the ride there we had to drag him out to put the covers down on the rear seat used to dog protect the upholstery. He almost strangled himself trying to get out of the car when we arrived at the The Fox and Hounds car park.  A short walk in the woods, a drink and we took him into the dog friendly pub bar and had coffee and a drink - there is a dog bowl provided.  The landlord was extremely welcoming and handed us the Toy's Hill walking map and told us of the terrain we were likely to experience.  Lunch was light by choice but excellent and the beer I had was most excellent. We liked the look of the menu which is both affordable and varied.  Top notch value for money.

Toy's Hill is one of the highest points in Kent and during the 1987 hurricane suffered damage to many of its trees.  We took a short walk before lunch more to enjoy the day and give the dog a reason for being with us and saw much evidence of downed trees, their root clumps vertical and trunks laying on the ground.  What amazed us was the way branches were now growing like trees themselves and some indeed wheer the main trunk was rotting had formed roots of their own.  We were amazed too that some large trees had survived the blast of what we agreed was the Michael Fish Effect (MFE) and made some cruel jokes about weather forecasters. 

However, aside from the MFE the woods on Toys Hill are beautiful and more so at this time of the year when the trees are at their peak, mature green and enjoying the spring growth and summer strength.  The walking is cool and varied with easy slopes and some pleasantly challenging climbs for the nearly knackered and overweight casual walkers - even the dog was panting - eitehr from frustration at our slow progress or overweight not having been walked enough during the last month.

Toy's Hill is close to Emmetts Garden  as indeed a path passes through it.  It has some bridleways which are used so be careful to watch for horses and also incorporates part of the Greensand Way.  As casual walkers we didn't 'do' all of the tracks but instead wandered some of them enjoying the undulating terrain and the view from lookout points. 

The woods are kept in a natural state and the paths and walkways clear and yet unobtrusive - you know you are on a path but it seems natural to be there even although they are obviously formed. 

Points of interest are the site of Weardale Manor and the Bat Tower.  The manor was a country retreat but fell in to disrepair and was eventually destroyed.  The Bat Tower was a water tower now converted to provide a home for hibernating bats.  I like that.

Something of a disappointment was that in the very informative brochure theer is a picture of some Adders but we did not see any.  Adders and Vipers were once my boyhood interest and I would like to see some on our walks.

We spent a pleasant afternoon strolling around and decided that Toy's Hill, a walk to Ide Hill was a good idea for a day out later in the year. We may even take a look at Emmetts Garden but unfortunately we will not be able to take the dog. A pity that because even dogs like some cultural enlightenment.

A final note: we were reminded by a fellow dog walker that Toy's Hill, Ide Hill and Emmetts and places like Knole Park are not from from London and other than the fact that there was congestion on the M20 which we had to skirt around we would not have realised how close we are. 

Birling Village Kent

Birling is a small village close to Maidstone and West Malling in Kent set on the road between Ryarsh and Snodland.  Its attraction is the church on the hill and the ragstone houses built by the Neville estate for its workers.  As the friendly church warden informed us, it is a fuedal village and from the way she described the community, the youngest Neville plays the organ at the church, and how the family are tied to the church and the land around we had to believe her. The result is an attractive Kent village with that look of the larger towns, such as Maidstone and parts of Rochester.  The houses built of Kentish Ragstone and brick are attractive and are well looked after.  Notably the modern newly built homes followed the older style and although it obvious that they are new they blend in.   We wandered around in the heat taking a look at the church - there is parking - and took a stroll to the Neville Bull for a light lunch and some liquid refreshment.

The place is worth a visit.  Statement of fact.  The pub was clean, the landlord cheerful and friendly, the food good and the menu extensive.  The Bull theme is carried out with some droll water color cartoons distributed around the walls - dreadful jokes - but worth a look.  There is a large car park and a patio for sun lovers and smokers. 

Birling has its own attractions, least of all the glowing roses that abound in the gardens which at this time of the year with the rain and the hot sun are going crazy trying to show off.  A quietly pretty village Birling is surrounded by farmlands with paths leading to woodlands, to Ryarsh and back up to Holly Hill,  a local woodland area.  For the less intrepid walker the good news is that there is a car parking space at the Holly Hill woods and from there it is pleasant to walk along the West Weald Way or to take the paths to Luddesdown - that depends on the weather and the time you want to spend. 

The casual walk around Birling in the twenty to thirty degree heat was a little too much for me skin and blister and at one stage she sheltered in the shade of a telegraph pole to keep out of the sun.  Singing 'Waltzing Matilda' to remind her how hot it can get in Aussie I suggested we wander back to the church and go inside where it was cool.  It was there met the church warden and chatted.  A church has stood there since medieval times and has been impoved, added to and refurbished.  It is worth a look and please make a donation. 

The church stands on a hill which so its history suggests was used as a redoubt and a place to gather water.  There is evidence in the run of the land that there should be a natural water flow past the hill and through it as a filter it being sandy and not chalk - hence the use no doubt of the Ragstone - with the occassional showing of willow where a stream flows. 

Organic pigs and the Black Death

One of the nicest things about going places you have never been before is that they turn out to be places you want to visit again.  Luddesdown, a small village close to Cobham and Meopham in the Gravesham area of Kent is one such a place. With a choice of pubs to stop at I chose The Old Lion over The Cock Inn not because it is better but simply because it was reccomended by a local who told me the food was good. I cannot say the same for the beer but I did like my snack.

The feature of Luddesdown is Luddesdown Court and the Parish Church as well as the organic farm where you are invited to walk and enjoy. The farm is not exactly the hub of the walks in the area but is centered there in such a way as to be an integral part of a walker's pleasure.  There are a number of country parks close by and from there some of the walks, including the WealdWay either include it in circular walks from Sole Street, Meopham or Cobham and Shorne Country Park or as part of walks around the North Downs Way which is excellent.  As a result I met a number of people on various hikes and learned much about the area.  I met a group of teenagers loaded up with backpacks and camping gear on their way to make camp at Meopham and learned they were doing part of their Duke of Edinburgh award - well done folks!

I drove to the church and parked, had a wander around and took a short excursion along part of the WealdWay and returned to investigate the Village Hall.  A local resident and his dog told me the history of the hall which was once a school with the school master's house alongside.  The school operated teaching most ages up until 1956.  It faces over a valley, part of the organic farm, and down on a cricket pitch part of which is on a slope! 

From the pub where I stopped for a pint and a chat with a local I walked up to the Dode church meeting a horse rider on the way who directed me to where it was.  The story of the church is that it served a village until the 1300's when the population was hit by the Black Death and decimated.  The Parson ran away, so it is said, and left his parishioners to their fate. The village buildings fell into disrepair and disappeared but the stone church remained and was converted to use as a barn.  Today weddings are held there albeit using a registrar but access is limited as it is on private property.  The girl serving in the bar said she and her friends used to go up there when they were children but would not go there at night - spooky, she says.

I walked back via WealdWay and to Luddesdown Court and watched the cricket match for a while but needing a lunch I left them to it and wandered back via a footpath across the fields back to the pub. 

A Fleeting visit to Ryarsh and a flick through Birling

I have often passed the sign on the A20 pointing to Ryarsh and Birling and as curiosity is in danger of killing the cat I decided to use a life and have a look. A doomsday village Ryarsh has a strange charm from its modern village hall neatly ensconced beside the playing fields to its 16C pub, The Duke of Wellington.  The strange part is that the pub is called after the Duke that thumped Napoleon but dates from 1516?  Time travel?  According to its website the pub offers a friendly service but I walked in, found a few disinterested locals, a private function that drew all the staff away from the bar and a feeling that I was an intruder.  Most unpleasant but we will try it later maybe? 

However, there was a good reason for walking the village.  I wanted to see what was there and found a few old buildings, a grand Oast, and an 1852 building pictured above which the owner was working on replacing inside wall linings and and the crumbling wall outside the house. He said he was going to reinstate the iron railings that formerly made the wall so attractive.  The locals in their homes were friendly.

I walked along the old school lane and found the school which was once a school as to be expected circa 1858 and did time as the village hall and is now two houses.  The stone looks like Kentish Ragstone cut to shape.  There are other places in the village with evidence of similar material.  Notably the older houses, there are a number of new buildings with 1960's and 70's utility stamped all over them as well as some more modern ones. Tacky stuff. Take the road opposite the pub up the hill (cannot remember the name) and there is a house named appropriately 'The Old House' with buttressed brick walls and late tudor style chimneys that smack of this once being a manor house - now a row of separate dwellings.

It is above this house that the road winds around eventually to the hills and disappears into a track. Footpaths head to the hills but as this was a fleeting visit and I needed a map I declined to follow them.  The hills are those leading to the Trosley Park area and those above Snodland.  Mighty pleasant looking part of the North Downs and well worth a further tromp.

In showing the Old School House last I have a method in my madness - driving through Birling I saw many of the houses were built similarly and I marked the place for a further visit.

A Walk with the wolves and bluebells

This time of the year should be sunny with a little rain, pleasantly warm and a little cool; most of all theer should be primroses and bluebells in the woods.  As statement of fact that England has bluebells in late April and early May.  This year we were pleased to see them in Speldhurst but they were not yet in full lavender bloom so when we walked in the hills around Hucking in Kent we saw plenty. 

One could wax romantic about them and naturally associated with Spring we expect beauty and a wonderful display of color.  We can imagine nympths cavorting with dryads among the forest flowers if we imagine hard enough.  What spoils the image is the cold weather that gusts in and out of the warm sunshine allowing briefly the warmth to release the aroma and to shine on the flower through the pristine newly sprung leaves that dapples the sunlight and gives that misty glow of myriad blooms dangling on their waxy stems. Cor!

The woodland trust manages the area traditionally mixing cattle and sheep grazing with natural woodland growth. The result is the increasing numbers of birds and the wonderful native flora (not the margerine) that is abundant throughout the season. 

So we got our Bluebells and although the walk was pleasant we had lunch outside and it wasn't.  Lunch was excellent but being outside where the smokers go because we could not take the wolf in with us was the hard bit. Zoid the dog is a good if somewhat demanding companion who thinks he is a wolf out on a hunt. (Twit)

However, the day although it turned wet and cold in the afternoon was pleasant and worth the trip.  Bear in mind that now we just look at the bluebells and wonder at the carpet of blossom - when I was a child it was quite common to gather the flowers in bundles to take home and for a time have them sending out their musty aroma to fill the air.  We also picked primroses but thenn the forest floor was carpeted with the blighters, and I suppose because people also took planst as well there seem to be less. 

I like the idea of leaving them untouched except by cameras, insects and our inquisitive eyes. 

Speldhurst - walking with bluebells

First things first - the George and Dragon pub is child friendly and dog friendly complete with a water bowl in the bar (for the dogs) We sailed in, had a sniff around the village and returned to order a light lunch.  Excellently presented and extremely palatable with a wide range of starters, main courses, desserts and wines on the menu.  The menu is changed regularly but as they do not do bar snacks as such this could be a downside if you want a sandwich.  Bite the bullet and eat a lunch - enjoy because the chef knows what he or she is doing.  Top quality for reasonable prices.  Again, be polite and let them know you are going for a walk and will be dining and imbibing of refreshments. Harvey's ale is on sale.

Above: The George and Dragon Pub

Next:House next to St Mary's Church

The old Farmhouse Bullingstone Lane

The walk we elected to do was suggested as a one and a half hour trip but we took much longer (Anno domini and fussing about the dog who needs to learn what my sister wants from him regarding walking) but no matter it was pleasant.  Start at the pub and turn left walking along the road to a gate marked by public footpath sign leading to Bullingstone Lane.  The path is obvious from there and will lead you out to the lane where you turn right and find the path next to Holly cottage.  This leads down through the woods and you can take the left or right fork - we took the left up thorugh the woods to Coopers lane and down there to the path on the right on a tight bend that leads across fields with views of Penshurst Place and the Medway river below.

The route then goes down to the bottom of Coopers lane where you will see Poundsbridge church which is well worth the visit and back again up the hill on a footpath to a road where you turn right and go back to the top of Coopers lane and return along the path you came. 

The day was a scorcher for this time of the year and although it was pleasant walking the sun was hot brightening everything and creating a heat haze in the distance.  This area of Kent is steeped in history - as indeed is most of Kent - and has retained some of its finest old buildings and some of its most quaint and although Speldhurst has a few the impression we had was of a village that had developed with the ages giving off a mixture of ancient and modern and a feeling that here is a village with life. 

St Mary's church was rebuilt in 1890 but according to the records there was a church there at least 900 years before.  We did not go inside with the dog but the place looked interesting.